How the World Eats by Julian Baggini A Global Food Philosophy

What's it about?
How the World Eats (2024) examines how different societies approach food production and consumption, from traditional hunter-gatherers to industrial farming operations. It explores the complex global food web while investigating cutting-edge technologies, processed foods, and commodification. Through this worldwide culinary journey, it distills essential principles for a more sustainable, ethical, and equitable food future.


How we eat shapes who we are and defines our relationship with the world around us. Yet despite its fundamental importance, most of us know surprisingly little about how our food reaches our plates.

Consider your breakfast cereal – behind those simple flakes lies a global web involving patented seeds, industrial farming, international shipping, and complex supply chains. The system that delivers this seemingly mundane meal connects continents, economies, and ecosystems in ways that remain largely invisible to us.

Today, this intricate food world faces unprecedented challenges. While we produce enough to feed everyone, nearly 600 million people will still face hunger in 2030. Meanwhile, obesity rates have tripled since 1975. Our farming practices drive climate change and biodiversity loss, with wildlife populations declining 69 percent since 1970.

In this lesson, you’ll learn how diverse food systems operate across cultures, why both traditional wisdom and modern innovation matter, and which principles might guide us toward a more sustainable, just, and nourishing food future.
In northern Tanzania, Hadzabe men communicate with honeyguide birds to locate beehives – a remarkable example of how humans once lived in harmony with their environment. The Hadza, with fewer than 300 people still living entirely as hunter-gatherers, offer a window into our ancestral past and valuable lessons for our future food systems.

These hunter-gatherers epitomize sustainability, taking only what they need from nature while allowing it to fully replenish. Despite having no food reserves, they possess greater food security than modern societies because they know the next meal is always available in their environment. They demonstrate a balance modern societies have lost.

The popular paleo diet movement often misrepresents ancient eating patterns. Contrary to these restrictive approaches, archaeological evidence shows our ancestors ate diverse foods including legumes and grains. Hunter-gatherers are notably adaptable, not rigid in their food choices. When an unusual El Niño rainfall filled Lake Eyasi, Hadza men immediately adapted by fishing for catfish – showing humans evolved as dietary generalists.

Research on the Hadza gut microbiome reveals it contains more bacterial diversity than in industrialized populations. Importantly, rural agriculturalists show similar microbiome profiles, suggesting processed foods – not agriculture – caused our microbiome diversity loss. The hunter-gatherer diet’s four key features – diversity, freshness, wholeness, and seasonality – create this healthy microbial environment.

The Hadza food system also operates on principles foreign to market economies. When an animal is killed, it’s considered a public good until distributed equally among community members, regardless of who made the kill. This cooperative approach contradicts Western assumptions about food economies requiring individual rewards.

While we can’t return to a hunter-gatherer lifestyle – it would require reducing the global human population by over 96 percent – we can adopt its principles. The fundamental connection between how we live and how we eat is still there, though now obscured by modern food systems. Sustainable living requires recognizing the interdependence of all things, appreciating that food isn’t just another consumer choice but the foundation of human society.
The Netherlands, smaller than West Virginia but with the world’s second-largest agricultural exports, offers a powerful case study in how intensive farming can evolve. This tiny nation produces 505,000 kg of tomatoes per hectare – nearly six times more than Italy – while exporting more food than giants like Brazil or Russia.

This remarkable productivity emerged from tragedy. Following the Dutch Hunger Winter of 1944–45, when daily caloric intake plummeted to 580 calories and 20,000 people died, the country vowed “never again.” Agriculture Minister Sicco Mansholt led a transformation that reduced farms from 400,000 to 55,000 while increasing production tenfold between 1950–2015.

The Dutch embraced the Green Revolution – synthetic fertilizers, high-yielding crop varieties, and pesticides – more enthusiastically than most. But this intensity eventually hit environmental limits, with the Netherlands now having Europe’s highest emissions of ammonia, nitrogen, and phosphorus per hectare.

This dilemma has sparked innovation in sustainable intensification – getting more food from fewer resources. The approach uses precision agriculture to apply water, nutrients, and pesticides only where needed. Indoor farming creates controlled environments that reduce inputs while increasing outputs.

Multiple approaches to sustainability exist. While organic farming typically yields just 75 to 80 percent of conventional systems, it benefits biodiversity. Regenerative agriculture focuses on restoring soil health, while conservation agriculture minimizes soil disturbance. The Dutch example suggests that rather than choosing one method, we need context-specific solutions.

The most successful farms create what has been called “a mosaic of different landscapes” – combining high-intensity production with conservation areas. This pluralistic approach recognizes that what works best depends on local conditions, soil types, and climate.

Ultimately, the Dutch model’s real strength comes from collaboration and knowledge-sharing. In agriculture’s future, we don’t need to choose between tradition and technology – we need both, thoughtfully applied to local conditions.
A Belgian chocolate praline represents more than just a universal pleasure – it embodies an entire system of global inequality. While a farmer in Côte d’Ivoire earns just 78 cents per day growing cacao, a single Hershey bar costs $1.24 in American stores. This stark disparity reveals how agricultural products have transformed from foods into commodities.

Chocolate undergoes a remarkably complex journey from tree to bar. The process begins with harvesting cacao pods and fermenting the beans, then continues through drying, roasting, winnowing, grinding, conching, and tempering. While initial processing often happens near farms, the value-adding steps typically occur in wealthy countries. Though Africa produces two-thirds of the world’s cacao, the processing happens primarily in places like the Netherlands, Germany, and Malaysia, with the largest markets being Europe and North America.

The commodification of food fundamentally changed agriculture. Instead of direct farm-to-table relationships, today’s system features multiple intermediaries separating farmers from manufacturers. In commodity markets, agricultural products must be standardized and replaceable, pushing farmers to prioritize yield and consistency rather than quality or taste.

This system creates serious environmental consequences. Between 2001 and 2014, one-quarter of Côte d’Ivoire’s forests were cleared for cocoa production. Beyond chocolate, the commodification of agriculture has broader impacts too: globally, just three crops – maize, rice, and wheat – account for nearly 90 percent of grain production, creating dangerous vulnerabilities to disease and climate change.

Alternative models like fair trade certification and specialty markets offer limited improvements. Fair trade premiums typically increase farmer income by only 20 percent – not enough to provide a living wage – while craft chocolate markets remain niche, with bars often selling for $6 or more.

The challenges can’t be solved through consumer choice alone. Major companies like Cadbury and Nestlé have actually retreated from certification programs in recent years. Real change would require reforming commodity markets themselves, recognizing that capitalism can take many forms with varying degrees of regulation. The chocolate we enjoy represents a system that needs fundamental restructuring to become truly sustainable.
When Modelo Especial became America’s top-selling beer in 2023, financial reporting highlighted its cultural resonance, clever marketing, and sports sponsorships – but remarkably never mentioned its taste. This revealing omission perfectly illustrates how modern food corporations operate: they sell ideas rather than flavors.

Since the 1980s, we’ve lived in what sociologists call the corporate food regime, where global food businesses, not nations, dominate the system. This shift has created troubling practices, particularly regarding children’s health. Companies have targeted kids through branded counting books, exclusive contracts in schools, and mandatory commercial-laden television programming like Channel One News that reached captive classroom audiences.

Corporate pressure for ever-increasing profits drives these behaviors. The US food system produces an astonishing 3,782 calories per person daily – far more than needed – requiring companies to convince people to eat more. Wall Street demands not just profit but continuous growth, creating a relentless push for sales regardless of health consequences.

Even ethically minded food businesses struggle against these pressures. Unilever’s sustainability focused CEO Paul Polman was replaced after investor impatience. Danone’s CEO Emmanuel Faber was ousted when shareholders felt his social responsibility focus undermined profits. Leon’s cofounder discovered his chain couldn’t be financially viable selling only healthy food, settling instead for something slightly better than junk food.

The limits of voluntary corporate ethics explain why many food executives privately support stronger regulations. They want to operate more responsibly but fear competitive disadvantage if they act alone. Third-party certifications like B-Corp and Fairtrade offer partial solutions, but companies typically abandon them when profitability suffers.

Some companies leverage their power positively – like M&S implementing high animal welfare standards across its supply chain. But meaningful, widespread change requires smart regulation that aligns profit motives with public good. The solution isn’t eliminating regulations but reconfiguring existing systems to ensure ethical practices become the most profitable option. When properly incentivized, businesses can adapt quickly to prioritize both financial returns and social responsibility.
In Patagonia, cattle roam freely across traditional ranches spanning 45,000 hectares – areas larger than some Caribbean islands – moving seasonally to find the best grass. This traditional approach stands in stark contrast to modern feedlots, where two-thirds of Argentina’s cattle now live in spaces just 3 percent the size they once enjoyed. This shift represents a global transformation carrying profound implications for animal welfare, environmental sustainability, and human health.

Worldwide meat consumption continues to rise, with production projected to increase from 300 to 470 million tonnes annually by 2050. This demand has driven the rapid expansion of industrial livestock facilities, with 70 percent of American cows, 98 percent of pigs, and 99 percent of poultry now raised in concentrated operations. Animals in these systems face severe welfare challenges – from minimal space to painful procedures performed without anesthesia – while breeding for rapid growth causes health problems like lameness in 25 percent of dairy cows.

The environmental costs are equally concerning. Feed crop production has driven massive deforestation, with Brazil becoming the world’s largest soybean exporter. The biodiverse Cerrado savanna, home to 11,000 plant species, has seen half its area converted to agriculture, much of it illegally. Meanwhile, drought has forced many traditional ranchers to reduce their herds as climate change threatens their livelihood.

Yet not all livestock farming has the same impact. Properly managed grazing can be greenhouse gas neutral through the biogenic carbon cycle, where methane from cattle eventually returns to the soil as carbon. And several countries are implementing reforms – the Netherlands has seen a fivefold increase in slower-growing chicken breeds, while France, Germany, and Italy have banned the mass killing of male chicks.

Livestock farming isn’t monolithic. We can preserve traditional systems while significantly reducing overall consumption, bridging the increasingly polarized debate between those who want to eliminate all animal agriculture and those who defend the status quo.
Food marketing often emphasizes “natural” qualities, yet our understanding of what’s natural can be surprisingly disconnected from reality. Take that organic Ruby Red grapefruit in your shopping basket. It wasn’t simply picked from a wild tree – it was created by exposing plants to ionizing radiation to induce mutations, a process that would never occur naturally at such rates. This contradiction reveals our complex and often inconsistent relationship with genetic technology in food.

Humans have been altering plants genetically for millennia through selective breeding, choosing seeds with desirable traits long before understanding how genetics worked. Modern genetic modification simply accelerates and directs this process with greater precision. Since the first commercial GMO in 1994, the technology has simultaneously sparked hope and controversy.

Consider Golden Rice, engineered to contain beta-carotene to address vitamin A deficiency that causes a million deaths annually. Despite being ready in the early 2000s, this nonprofit initiative remains unavailable due to opposition from environmental groups and regulatory barriers. Meanwhile, commercial GM crops designed to withstand herbicides have flourished, showing how financial resources determine which technologies succeed.

Scientific consensus from organizations like the FDA and Royal Society confirms GM foods are safe to eat. The herbicide glyphosate used with GM crops carries some risk, but food residues pose minimal danger compared to everyday carcinogens like processed meat and alcohol.

Today, gene editing technologies like CRISPR offer even more precise genetic alterations without adding foreign DNA. This Nobel Prize–winning approach creates drought-resistant, higher-yield crops with changes indistinguishable from natural mutations. And its lower cost could potentially democratize access beyond large corporations.

Curiously, many organic standards prohibit precisely edited crops while allowing those created through random radiation-induced mutations – a policy inconsistency that highlights how regulation follows cultural perceptions rather than scientific risk assessment.

The debate around genetic technology reflects competing values rather than competing facts. But environmental protection and technological innovation don’t need to be adversaries. Since the 1960s, technology has halved the land required to feed each person. The future of sustainable food may depend not on rejecting biotechnology but ensuring it serves everyone, not just corporate interests.
Our global food system feeds more people than ever before yet produces widespread injustice, animal suffering, and environmental damage. Despite these contradictions, the seven principles needed to guide a healthier food world are neither controversial nor mysterious – they’re simply not being followed.

A truly sustainable food system begins with holism – recognizing that everything connects. When forests are felled in South America to feed European livestock, or fertilizers create dead zones in rivers, we’re seeing the consequences of fragmented thinking. This interconnectedness demands systems-thinking that acknowledges causal loops and nonlinear relationships between elements.

Complementing holism is circularity, where inputs and outputs remain balanced. On the South American Pampas, cattle traditionally fertilized the grasslands they grazed. Modern circularity might operate regionally or internationally, with specialized farms creating closed loops together.

Plurality recognizes that diverse environments and peoples need different approaches. One-size-fits-all solutions – whether Mediterranean diets or organic farming – inevitably fail somewhere. We need the largest possible toolbox of agricultural techniques rather than ideological purity.

The principle of foodcentrism places actual food at the center of our system. Today, a lot of agricultural land produces commodities for industrial processing rather than whole foods for eating. We’ve reduced food to nutrients instead of recognizing its social and psychological importance.

Resourcefulness balances innovation with traditional knowledge, avoiding both fear of innovation and blind faith in technical fixes. It makes the most of resources rather than depleting them.

The two final principles are compassion toward animals and equitability among humans. No food system has yet fully embraced the humane treatment of animals. And modern food chains concentrate wealth and power in large corporations while farmers receive a pittance.

Change faces an unholy cycle where governments, corporations, and consumers each wait for others to act first. Breaking this cycle doesn’t require dismantling capitalism or universal veganism. It’d simply mean aligning our existing values with our practices through a series of purposeful adjustments. Food cultures have changed dramatically before – and can again.
The main takeaway of this lesson to How the World Eats by Julian Baggini is that our food systems reflect profound cultural values while facing critical sustainability challenges. From hunter-gatherer practices to corporate agriculture, each approach reveals different relationships between humans, animals, and the environment. By embracing holism, circularity, plurality, foodcentrism, resourcefulness, compassion, and equity, we can create better food futures. Small, purposeful adjustments that align our existing values with our practices can transform how we eat, benefiting both people and the planet.

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